Cromeleque dos Almendres is the largest Megalithic monument in the Iberian peninsula — around 7000 years old — 2000 years older than Stonehenge. A pleasant sunny spring day to visit.There are 100 monoliths stones that comprise Cromeleque dos Almendres. The high position on a hill allows for astronomical sightings and tracking the annual movement of the sun.About 2 km away is this Menhir dos Almendres — positioned to align with the sun at summer solstice from the larger Cromeleque site.‘Hello Cow’ — she is loving the flowers on the other side of the fence! Our 7.5 mile hiking round trip took us through farm lands and gorgeous cork oak tree forests.At 19.5 feet in height, those stones in back make this the tallest Megalithic Dolmen found in the world — Anta Grande do Zambujeiro. This is a funereal monument — thought to be 6000 years old — with its long corridor facing the rising sun on the summer solstice.Roman Aqueduct — Evora — in all its spring glory! So many yellow clover flowers took our breath away.Whitewashed houses built between the Evora Roman Aqueduct. The Portuguese tradition of using yellow around doors and windows is often linked to warmth, hospitality, and a sense of joy.Evora is preparing to be the European Capital of Culture in 2027. We enjoyed walking the town, the local museum, coffee on the square and this Roman Temple.Castle of Montemor-o-Novo is on the highest hill — naturally. It received charter in 1203 but was probably built on a Muslim Moor site that was built on a Roman site.Montemor-o-Novo Castle was the venue of the ‘Cortes of 1495’ (a state assembly) during which Manuel I of Portugal decreed to send Vasco da Gama, born in this region, to discover a sea route to India.Montemor-o-Novo is in the fertile Alentejo valley. A very nice place to have as a home base for a few days.Quinta Da Asneira is an estate, divided into 5 apartments, but we and the sheep are the only ones enjoying it now! Our very own country Villa in Montemor-o-Novo.An Elvis sighting!!! We enjoyed a morning walk around this town — the medieval fortifications, cafe and pastries by the plaza, the sunshine — on our drive to Spain.The beauty and history in central Portugal has charmed us. We can see the influence of the Moors more clearly after our time in Morocco — such an integral part of the history in this region.
We are back to the big city: Fes, one of the oldest imperial cities, was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981. We are ready to explore the el‑Bali’s medina.A wonderful school built in 1670 — El-Cherratine Medersa — mesmerized us as it has hundreds of Koranic scholars with all of its intricate details.Another school for Islamic scholars built in 1350–55 — Bou Inania Medersa — is one of the most impressive in the Morocco.Fondouk el-Nejjarine constructed in 1711 as a bustling caravanserai — a combined overnight Inn and Warehouse for merchants. The three-story courtyard with cedar wood and stucco — traders securely stored their goods and animals on the ground floor and stayed in the upper levels — is now a wood craft museum.Chouara Tannery — one of the most famous, the oldest and largest Fez Tannery — has been around for 1000 years!We are given a mint leaf to hold to our nose to conceal the odors but that gives us an appreciation of what these men working in the tanning vats are enduring — in the intense sun and hip waders. The leather produced is world famous for its softness and beautiful colors.Also in the medina we find the Coppersmith. He is applying a silver powder to the inside of this copper vessel — making it sparkle, smooth and usable.We stopped for lunch and for some people watching at a Tajine restaurant in the medina. So good we went back for a second time a couple days later!While eating we saw why these deserts are all soooo… good! Honey is drizzled on top of them — lots and lots and lots and lots — so the pastries just soak it up. Good thing Pooh Bear isn’t here!Next to the royal palace are the Jardins de Bou Jeloud – a beautiful green oasis in the busy city.The end of the ‘Story’ — Hotel in Rabat before our departure. ‘Out of Africa’ … Morocco has been a delightful experience with much variety of landscapes, culture, and food. The number one take away is the friendliness of the people which is unsurpassed.
Volubilis was first established by the Romans in the 3rd century BC — supported 20,000 inhabitants. It is on a hill with a comprehensive view in all directions.The Roman Basilica is most prominent as a partially restored grand structure.There is a lot of room to stretch in the Capitoline Temple — dedicated to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. 13 steps to the massive Corinthian columns… ‘I rule all that I see!’Triumphal Arch, built in AD 217, to honor Emperor Caracalla, overlooks the fertile agricultural plains — one of the main reasons the Romans chose this site.The House of Venus — once the most opulent house in Volublis — with a palm tree in the garden. This city is huge as you can see.This all important olive oil press was restored and is similar to those used for many millenniums.We were very excited to see all the mosaics. This beautiful incomplete one is of Dionysus — located in the House of the Knight.Look at the detail in this mosaic! Called: House of the Athlete.This mosaic was really unique and titled the Nine Dolphins –symbolizing good luck.The photographer is capturing the mosaic of Orpheus, charming the animals with his lyre.We found a quiet spot to take a break and contemplate all that we had seen.And enjoy the spring flowers — maybe these are a native white asphodel. Maybe the Romans encouraged the Asphodel Meadows after they read Homer’s Odyssey…
We leave the Sahara behind and head north through the breathtaking Ziz Gorge towards Fes. It brought to mind the canyons of the southwest USA.This southern area is very rich with fossils – we felt like we were driving through the Tucson Gem and Mineral show.And then there is snow in the Middle Atlas Mountains! Imagine in the past 7 hours we went from the Sahara, thru Morocco’s Grand Canyon and apple orchards, to the snow covered forest — what a diverse landscape.We had a rainy day in Ifrane but enjoyed a Resort lifestyle. This is dubbed the Switzerland of Morocco.Ifrane National Park with overflowing waterfalls — beautiful Cascades des ViergesThe waterfalls are all quite breathtaking.Next to the river, we met some locals and swap photo ops.Wow. The power of water! This side of the mountains seems to get a lot of moisture.Nearby towards Azrou, we head through Cedre Gouraud Forest NP. The cedar trees are very majestic.There were a lot of sheep — more than we have seen anywhere else — near Azrou & Cedre Gouraud Forest NP.Of course there is the proud papa Ram strutting with his flock.Outside Azrou, we were on the rim looking over mountains, valleys and fertile fields. We are definitively experiencing a more lush Morocco.
Sunrise in the Sahara! The Erg Chebbi Dunes are part of the largest desert on earth.Timbuktu 52 days by camel caravan…These Khettara Irrigation Access Shafts are near Hassilabied. This is part of an ancient system of tunnels that brought groundwater to the Sahara.The irrigation channels in the Hassilabied Palmeraie — date palms with the almond trees in blossom as well as some of the other crops.Footsteps in the sand — the strong overnight wind has erased all trace of those that have walked before us. Erg Chebbi DunesThe sun is intense as it rises… Magical shadows and the changing colors of the sand. Erg Chebbi DunesWe explored south into the dry desert landscape to the end of the pavement. One day we took a 4×4 jeep tour to explore offroad deeper into the dunes……We visited a Berber Nomad Camp with lots of goats. The little kids were quite friendly and curious. This is a harsh life for all……We toured an abandoned French lead mine as well as the ghost town they left behind. Now Pyrite and Quartz are the main minerals mined in the area.What a calm day to visit Dayet Srji Lake! You can see the dunes rising in the background. This is a seasonal lake — only here in the winter from the rains and snow melt in the mountains — much larger than we expected.Hassilabied Apartment Hotel is our oasis in the Sahara desert! We enjoyed our spacious apartment very much and the six friendly brothers that owned it.After an amazing Berber omelette breakfast, the patient chef showed me how to make the chicken Tajine for our next meal. That is two red onions that go in first….then the marinated chicken is topped with potatoes, carrots, zucchini, and tomato.The staff celebrates the preparation of the Tajine! The friendly young man in blue is our waiter – he has a Bachelor degree in law but wants a job working with tourists.Mouthwatering bubbling delicious chicken Tajine!!!Perfection in the wind carving.“I’ve always loved the desert. One sits on a sand dune. One sees nothing, hears nothing. And yet something silently glows…” from The Little Prince – Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Kelaat M’Gouna or Valley of Roses is beautiful with very unique exposed geologic layering and uplifting.We enjoyed a day exploring the valley and hanging out by the M’Goun river.Valley of Roses does have rose colored rocks but it is really named for growing the Damask Roses. This is an interesting article about their Rose Festival.This rock outcropping looks like a rose.There is intensive agriculture in the irrigated valley in addition to growing the profitable roses. Our riad — Dar Timitar — is visible in the background on the top of the hill.That is our Dar Timitar balcony below the roof terrace as we view the Full Moon setting from yet another roof terrace.We also enjoyed a few spectacular sunsets from the roof terraces as well as some wonderful home cooking. A very enjoyable family to stay with.We took a day trip to nearby Dadès Gorges, where the river was running pretty full — from the snow-melt coming off the High Atlas mountains.There are some very interesting geological formations here like these the locals call ‘Monkey Fingers’ – Dadès Gorges.Another view of the massive eroding ‘Monkey Fingers’ in Dadès Gorges.As we climbed further up the valley, it was interesting looking back on the dry topography. Dadès GorgesThere are so many special places — and roads — in the High Atlas Mountains that we have enjoyed exploring!
We left the Atlantic coast and headed through the Saffron growing valley and to the dry leeward side of the High Atlas Mountains.The Ksar of Aït Ben Haddou — Listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO in 1987 — is an iconic Pisé (adobe and raw brick) pre-Saharan architecture village. This view is famous for the many movies it has been used as an iconic backdrop. Link for more architectural details.Lawrence of Arabia’s camels? Aït Ben Haddou is located in the Ounila Valley and was on the caravan route connecting the Sahara to Marrakech.We enjoyed staying three nights at the peaceful and comfortable Riad – Paradise of Silence! We savored the spectacular sunrises before breakfast!A drive to nearby Ouarzazate is the African movie film capital – nicknamed “OUARZAWOOD”! ‘The Jewel of the Nile’ — with Michael Douglas — was first film made here at Atlas Studios in 1985.Morocco can also be filmed to look like Egypt, like in the 1999 movie ‘The Mummy’… Atlas Studios filmography.Our entertaining Moroccan guide received his technical film degree, and has worked as a movie technician on several films at Atlas Studios……He was very helpful explaining how all the productions worked, with different camera angles, when blue green screens were used, how the sets changed for different movies — really a good dose of movie magic!The palm tree on wheels and various other props — some are just profiles. ‘The Kingdom of Heaven’ set is in the background. We would recommend Nicole Kidman’s 2015 ‘Queen of the Desert’ filmed here — based on the real story of Gertrude Bell.A short drive is the Fint (hidden) Oasis with another old village. Its picturesque landscape has made it popular for film makers.We hired a local guide to show us around the village and take us to this relaxing spot — above the green Palmeraie — to enjoy a wonderful tagine lunch.
We followed the ‘101’ south along the west coast of Africa. Before arriving in Agadir we stopped to explore some Jurassic limestone caverns carved by the sea — Caves of Cape Ghir.There were a few petroglyphs visible — the Caves of Cape Ghir are known for the discovery of neolithic flint and other evidence of ancient people.We are staying in a condo at the marina in Agadir — excellent location, a pleasant harbor, good restaurants and a 3-mile long paved beach promenade, ‘The Corniche’.Paradise Valley was a day trip into the nearby foothills of the Atlas Mountains.Pink sandstone and sloped rocks make Paradise Valley a popular recreation area.It seems semester break starts today at the university so students are celebrating with a relaxing day in Paradise Valley!Swimming, diving, hollering — we are experiencing a local holiday. Paradise ValleyMeanwhile back to the long sandy beach of Agadir for another sunset on the Atlantic coast.Souss Massa National Park is very large and protects many local fauna and flora. It stretches along the coast from the Souss River valley in the north to the Massa River Valley in the south (picture – near Sidi Binzarne). Beautiful fields of wildflowers, flamingos and spoonbills in the river delta.Our NP guide, Mohammad, showed us the argan trees and how to harvest and crush the seeds for oil. In Souss Massa NP – Rokein StationHe also guided us around a driving loop where we saw numerous ostriches. This is a female and we saw her 5 offspring as well as the darker colored male. Souss Massa NP – Rokein Station.We saw several of this beautifully horned antelope species called Addax. This is a male with a dark patch of hair between his horns — females are light colored. Souss Massa NP – Rokein Station.The Dorcas Gazelle is small — more skittish. This is an endangered species that is protected but poachers are still a problem out side the park. Souss Massa NP – Rokein Station.…and yes we made it back to walk the beach in Agadir for another Sunset.We enjoyed Mama Caterina twice – a local Italian restaurant on the marina for……the gift of good coffee! also good food. Mama CaterinaShopping for souvenirs at the Carrefour – ha ha ha – very Moroccan!We joined many on the beach for our last night in Agadir. A very pleasant week here.
