On the road we head south along Innik Fjord (Nordfjord) on a rainy sort of day. But we could still appreciate the grandeur.At the top of the map – we left Stryn heading south to Fjaerland (in bold on map), then down and up to Gjerde to explore the east side. The Jostedalsbreen glacier, the largest glacier on the European mainland.Fjaerland is at the end of another fjord (Sognefjorden) – and as we have now learned all these fjords are carved by glaciers. We have come here to see another branch- Boyabreen- which you can if you look closely through the high humidity.If you have looked at any promotional brochures of Norway you will have seen this well placed sauna with a view in Fjaerland.Meeting up with some ice explorers and scientists at the world class Norwegian Glacier Museum.This is as close as we got today to the glacier – the Boyabreen Glacier branch.Always relieved to find some conveniences especially in such scenic locations.A lush green high humidity rainy sort of day was our best chance of exploring the east side of Jostedalsbreen NP. There were more waterfalls and water on this route than we remember ever seeing anywhere – obviously abundant due to the rain quantity.This unique visitor center – Breheimsenterret – seems to extend right from the glacier itself (seen flowing down the valley at the right)It reminded me of a Viking helmet from this direction. Museum is in lower level with a good movie with screen that goes up, curtains open for large window to view glacier – National Park worthy experience.Really the best way to spend a rainy morning! A waffle with strawberry jam or a sweet local pastry with fresh brewed coffee. Universal…Clouds seem to lift so we drive toll road to Nigardsbreen Glacier.The glacier melt off has left this beautiful milky lake. The boat will cut 20 minutes off the 45 minute hike to touch the glacier but we thought hiking on wet rocks in the rain was not going to be worthwhile.So we picniced in our car while watching the clouds play, tried to count all the waterfalls, and enjoyed the lush green from all the moisture.The force of the waterfalls is breathtaking. We may not have experienced what we planned but we appreciated our explorations and the many moods of the landscape.
We took our coffee from our cabin at Mindresunde Camping to the shore of Lake Strynevatnet as the morning was so calm,This is the farm across from our cabin reflected on Lake Strynevatnet.We drove through Loen and loved the valley clouds over the Innvik Fjord.Possibly the same cloud has now settled over Lovatnet Lake. Amazing color of the glacier melt water as it reflects the sky on this crisp September morning. We are repeating our route from yesterday as the forecast is to be sunny today.However, there is a low cloud at the end of the road near Kjenndalsbreen Glacier. These waterfalls seem to fall right from the cloud.The sun might break through so we can see the Kjenndalsbreen Glacier.The Kjenndalsbreen Glacier is a branch of the Jostedalsbreen glacier, the largest glacier on the European mainland.Ice and water and rocks: Carving the land with their power.The sun finally illuminates the Kjenndalsbreen Glacier. The ice looks so blue because it absorbs more red and yellow light and allows more blue light to pass through. This is more noticeable on large blocks of ice like a glacier.The lush green landscape on our hike at the base of the Glacier.The green is so green. The color of the moss is so vivid. Quite a feast for the eyes!We enjoyed the sunny day with a picnic along Lovatnet Lake looking back at Kjenndalsbreen Glacier.And back at “our” Lake Strynevatnet we soaked up some rays, appreciated the clear skies and the wonderful reflections.
Wonderful morning reflections from Mindresunde Cabin on Lake Strynevatnet.Our first view of Lovatnet Lake and it’s peaceful valley on this calm morning.The Kjenndalsbreen Glacier and the valley it has carved into Lovatnet Lake. This is a branch of the Jostedalsbreen – the largest glacier in mainland Europe.Lovatnet Lake had a couple major landslides and subsequent tsunamis that filled in this part of the lake.Our return trip down the valley has a bit more sun highlighting the Kjenndalsbreen Glacier above Lovatnet Lake. We pulled into a drive to allow traffic to pass and the owner pulled in behind us. We were invited to visit and learned from Mr. Horgrenning the story of his farm, the family that emmigrated, his trip in 2001 to USA. I found this interesting story about the farm onlineThat is worth a close up shot!About an hour away in Nordfjordeid, we went to the Stagastad Viking Museum.The lovingly recreated 30-meter long Myklebust ship really allows us to experience the craftsmanship and quality of construction as well as the shear size of this Viking Ship.Stagastad Viking Museum is also a great building right next to a community park on the fjord. There is an excellent movie on their website.King of the Fjord!Nordfjord and our final reflections of the day.
A pleasant morning as we headed south on Geirangervegen.We walked around the tundra area with the lush green mosses and interesting rocks.We are at around 1,000 meters (that is 3,280 feet above the fjord).We are in the mountains now!We thought this area was picturesque.We took the toll road up to the Dalsnibba Sky Walk at 4,920 feet.Very dramatic to look out across to the glaciers……and to look back at Geiranger Fjord. I feel like an eagle.The Heillstuguvatnet Lake on the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen – another scenic national tourist route!The sun played peek a boo – it seemed to be snowing on the mountains! We enjoyed the fall colors and managed to hit pretty much every pot hole on the gravel road – ha!A rapid on the way to Hjelledalen Falls shows the glacial color of the water.Our cabin for the next few nights is this one on Lake Strynevatnet at Mindresunde Camping – our base to explore some glaciers in Jostedalsbreen National Park.
The first snow on the mountains for the season or so we learned from the locals from this top at Eidsvatnet Lake.Eidsvatnet Lake was a pleasant stop before winding our way up that valley.We stopped at the Ornevegen Viewpoint to get our first view of Geiranger fjord.It is at the top of these switchbacks!One of the most beautiful fjords, a UNESCO world heritage site!There were 2 cruise ships and many tour buses in town so lots of people. A couple from New Zealand chatted with us and offered to take a photo.This adorable cabin is where we are going to spend the next few nights – the very tranquil Hole Hytter.Henry enjoying the view from our cabin at Hole HytterIt is an amazing view from the dining table as well.Norway’s first National Tourist Trail is a dramatic walk/stairway from town to the Norwegian Fjord Centre following this waterfall.Geiranger fjord is part of a UNESCO world heritage site to protect the Western Fjords of Norway. It is a very special area of the world with this interesting museum to learn more.The fresh cinnamon buns were delicious!!!!This model of the Seven Sisters Waterfall, which is 1,350′ tall, shows how deep the fjords are – about 800′ under water.We took the 20km ferry round trip to Hellesyit to experience being on the water and seeing the entire fjord.The Seven Sisters Falls were impressive.As were the falls on the other side of the fjord.We even saw some kayakers – they might have been warmer than us.But we got a bit of sunshine and enjoyed seeing the entire Geiranger fjord!The Queens Chair at the Flydalsjuvet Viewpoint was put in by Queen Sonja so we could all experience the majestic beauty of her country.
A beautiful morning as we daytripped from our cabin in Sjoholt and crossed the Storfjoden to Sykkylven.Sykkylven is where the Ekornes furniture is manufactured and this was our motivation to visit this Norwegian fjord. A pleasant community in a stunning location.The Ekornes Stressless chairs we ordered in March and while we waited 4 months for them to cross the ocean we decided it was time to take our first trip to Norway!We took another ferry across Hjorundjorden to explore that peninsula.One of the beautiful Sunmore Alps as the fall colors are highlighted with a bit of sunshine.Further inland a storm is brewing on the Hjorundjorden.There is almost no sense of scale but you can see a ship silhouetted.Spectacular!Some of our exploring was a bit wet but we were rewarded with this rainbow on our return to the cabin.
Alesund – view of this beautiful town from Mount Aksla.Reflection of the Art Nouveau buildings of Alesund. The town was rebuilt following a devastating fire in 1904.We enjoyed a walk along the waterfront/inland canal in Alesund.We saw this crest several times showing the strong connection this town has to the North Atlantic or Norwegian Sea.We traveled the time machine and toured the The Art Nouveau and KOBE museums.Detail of the well preserved building with slate tile roofs. The town reconstruction employed a lot of different trades throughout Norway.This is a bold claim! For our lunch: the cod was thick, succulent, fresh, with a light fried battered just right – it is a contender. Definitely the best in the world we had today!All wine/alcohol must be purchased at this government run entity: Vinmonopolet (located in many towns)Wine O’Clock around the world: Spain, Italy, France, Australia! Wynn’s was rated the best buy in Norway under 200kr (under $20) so worth a try.Many of the islands are connected to Alesund by tunnels under the sea and through the mountains. Our destination was the island of Godoy to see the Alnes Lighthouse.Speaking of tunnels: A future project is in the works for Norway: Stad Ship Tunnel. It will accommodate 4 ships/ferry an hour for a safe passage through Stadhavet Sea.Catch a wave: Hang Ten on the North Atlantic!
As Norse legend tells it, the first rays of sunlight can turn the mythical trolls into stone (if they don’t hide in time!) so we will explore where trolls have been in the mountains.Our first stop was at the Gudbrandsjuvet Gorge.The Valldøla River has cut large potholes and intricate formations into the rock.Another interesting viewing area with fun art/architecture to experience the Gudbrandsjuvet Gorge.Sign outside the Gudbrandsjuvet: the cinnamon buns were awesome! Still warm from the oven they fortified us for the troll search.From the Trollstigen plateau, rising above the Isterdalen Valley are the three peaks: Bishop, King, Queen (Bispen, Kongen, Dronninga). which led us to debate if the bishop or queen had the most power…We passed over the glacial moraines with some snow still left in the upper valleys (where the trolls live?). We arrived at the Trollstigen Visitor Center.The Trollstigen cafe is undergoing repairs from an avalanche this winter but we could still appreciate the design and the location.We followed the water cascading to the first Viewpoint.We detoured from the paved path to follow these Sherpa stairs 1km for a private view point.What a stairmaster!Great view of the valley!And we were able to see the next cantilevered Trollstigen Viewpoint.And a take my picture balcony with The Bishop and The Queen.The Trolls Ladder (mostly one-lane) was completed in 1936 after 8 years – an engineering marvel. Imagine working in this valley carved out by the glacier, roaring rivers and multiple waterfalls!A better view of the waterfall through the vertigo inducing glass railing.An offer to take our picture resulted in this fun shot pointing to the future!Our GPS pretty much shows the same curves we have just photographed on this one-lane road. We are here in the morning so have missed dodging the tour buses.Ready or Not. We will probably regenerate many kilometers on the battery of our EV.At the end of the valley is another Troll spot: Trollveggen Visitor Center. We recharged the car while we ate a picnic lunch in this beautiful setting (cafe closed for the season).Europe’s highest vertical mountain wall has several climbing routes.We could browse for a book in this converted telephone booth lending library.Ramsdalen Valley: the route following the River Rauma has been named Europe’s most beautiful railway line. Filmed around here is the latest Mission: Impossible – Dead Reckoning – Part One
