We have flown north to the Atacama Desert-the driest (non-polar) place on earth, and the oldest desert. It is between 2 mountain ranges that create a rain shadow and also the Humboldt Current plays a role in moving the moisture away.This area is the archeological capital of Chile and has a long history of habitation. Aldeas Tular Ruins (the oldest archaeological site in Chile) might date back to 800 BCE – this early village had about 200 inhabitants. About 10 family members lived in a connected circular rooms.A connected home unit has been reconstructed with adobe and straw walls, wood beams in ceiling supported on a center post. Aldeas Tular Ruins shimmer in the desert heat!We also explored these ancient Chug Chug Geoglyphs – huge carvings into the hillside. These could date back to 1,000 BCE but most are from around 500 AD. (near Calama)The rock is carved away to leave these representations with some rocks added around the edges to define the shape. This area doesn’t receive wind or moisture so these have been fortunately preserved by the climate.This preserved Tiwanaku Textile at Museo Gustavo Le Paige, from pre-columbian culture of around 500 AD, is finely woven with alpaca wool. The thread is so very fine – such a talent for spinning. The intricate pattern of figures are winged with the head leaned over, are in different colors.Nearby is Pre-Columbian site of Pukara de Quitor. This stone fortress dates to around the 12th century.The Pukara de Quitor was under Inca rule in 1536, when it withheld the Spanish conquistadors for over 20 years.Incredible construction details at Pukara de Quitor. It is a National Monument.And so the Spanish built this catholic church in San Pedro de Atacama. Pre 1641.It is one of the oldest churches in Chile with a unique wood roof, lashed together with llama straps. It is also a National Monument.Of course we had to wander the streets and find some local cuisine. Salad is half of an avocado with warm shrimp, topped with shredded cheese. The bean soup has spaghetti noodles and sausage. Both yummy! Followed by a main course of roasted chicken and potatoes. And a delicious desert. Time for a siesta!
We headed to the Parque Nacional Alerce Andino, a reserve of South America’s oldest living tree, a cypress possibly related to our giant sequoias.Of course there are waterfalls! This is a rain forest after all.Crossing a river on this swinging bridge on a hike to a secluded lake in Parque Nacional Alerce Andino.The amazing boardwalk hike ended at Lago Sargazo – a beautiful pristine mountain lake.The scientific name for Alerce is Fitzroya cupressoides, named in honor of the captain of Charles Darwin’s ship, Robert FitzRoy – an avid scientist in his own right.This Alerce is estimated to be over 3,000 years-old. Some are as old as 4,000 years, or more? This Smithsonian article talks about the oldest tree.We returned to our Cabañas Vista Volcanes del Sur that overlooked Lago Llanquihue and Volcan Oscuro.The owners gifted us this delicious torte – we ate the whole thing in the 2 nights we were there in their comfy cabaña!
Early morning Volcán Osorno briefly reveals itself. Yes!!!!Another evening at sunset we again watched the clouds play over Volcan Osorno.Volcan Osorno – Fun!We took this picture from the airplane a few weeks ago.Also 11,380 ft Cerro Tronador in the distance, on the border with Argentina.A hike on sendero Paso Desolación in volcanic sand, in the Parque National Vicente Perez Rosales, to get a birds eye view of Lago Todos los Santos.Surrounded by the Andes Mountains. A boat route across Lago Todos los Santos connects to Argentina.We walked the black volcanic sand beach of Lago de los Santos.Interesting flowering tree. Maybe a native Eucryphia?After the hike we stopped to enjoy the cascades on Rio Petrohue.More volcanic rock worn smooth on the Rio Petrohue.Carintia Cabins – the Volcán – is our home for 5 nights! We would highly recommend any one of these 4 modular river cabins.The Grille master! BBQ Chicken Legs, then Pork Chops with some awesome Carménère wine.Or Cerveza Austral Patagonia as we are on the northern start of the Carreterra Austral.We enjoyed this view of Rio Petrohue from our cabin!We drove up the volcano to see the view of Lago Llanquihue,This is how the Volcán Osorno mostly appeared to us but we were very happy to have this view also from our cabin.
Cochamó! The sea becomes a sound that becomes the Reloncaví Estuary, view with the Volcán Yate.We enjoyed the best empanada freshly made for us next to the shore in Cochamó.What is that huge bird? A red headed vulture? Enjoying the same view in Cochamó.The Cochamó valley is considered a local Yosemite Valley. It is being maintained as wilderness so you need to backpack in to explore it’s grandeur.There is a history of fish farming.The delta where the Rio Petrohue meets the sea as we leave Cochamó, and follow the river home to our cabin.
Gorgeous Salto del Indio (waterfall) in Parque Nacional Puyehue.Black lava rock is worn smooth by the water. We enjoyed the waterfall all by ourselves!It rained hard all last night so we waited until after lunch and were rewarded with some blue sky.The location is in the ancient Valdivian temperate rain forest. Parque Nacional Puyehue.The ranger said this is a Mañio tree with a vine that does not harm the tree.So unusual. We were not expecting such dense vegetation.We hiked upstream to the next waterfall, the Salto Rapucura.The Chilean ‘Smokey Bear’ is called Forestín. He was rescued from a fire in 1976 to become an ambassador.He is a coypu, a mouse/beaver type rodent native to Chile. (probably not his real size!)
We flew north, took a ferry, and drove new rental car to Dalcahue on the island of Chiloé – the second largest island in South America (after Tierra del Fuego, of course!)Very excited to see a seal in the harbor…. and to actually get a photo.Singing for our supper. We learned Dalcahue is quite a food destination.Hauling the catch for our lunch.Yum – A cazuela with fresh sopapilla. Also tried the papas relleno in this huge food mall market with multiple chefs. Difficult decision as there are a lot of choices.A day trip to the Pacific west coast and the tropical vegetation of Parque Nacional de Chiloé.These Arrayan Trees were very interesting.The smooth bark the same color as my hair!A mirador to the Pacific Ocean. Apparently you can hear stories being told in the wind. Maybe Alexander von Humboldt talking about the current.A river flows in front to the beach area but you can walk for over 10 miles on the sand. Parque Nacional de ChiloéThe cliffs start heading south and the coast reminded us of Oregon. Parque Nacional de ChiloéNearby we hiked to Meulle de las Almas. An art installation of a dock to nowhere with a white boat that sails to infinity and beyond. To contemplate the meaning of life…or just get a photo.Further north is the Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil. A dock on wheels: What a unique method of loading the passengers!We gave it a try to go on this tour of the sea to see…Penguins!!! South American Magellanic penguinsFun to watch. There are also Humboldt Penguins here but we relied on our guide to know the difference. If the penguins leave, they will paint a chin stripe on the gulls…ha ha ha.The navigator has once again taken us on a fun exploration.Home at Casa Pasqual in Dalcahue, we enjoy Carménère Chilean wine with our view of the harbor. The owners, our hosts, of the house were so friendly and helpful – really caring about us having a good visit. They moved here to this peaceful location from Santiago, during the pandemic for a better quality of life for their family.A beautiful morning view with coffee and a wood stove taking the chill off. A special part of the world is Dalcahue on Isla Chiloé.
WOW! Impressive: Lago Pohoe in Torres del Paine National ParkWe hiked a mile up to get fabulous views and enjoy a leisurely lunch. No condors……but saw this interesting falcon; a crested Caracara (Caracara plancus).The reflections were magnificent at this unnamed pond further east!Lago Azul…enjoyed a fresh brewed cup of coffee here with this view of the Torres.Zoom detail of the Torres del Paine. The oldest rock is on top as magma has pushed it up.Gorgeous. Zoom detail of the glacier on top the Paine Grande, at the end of summer.The waterfall on the Paine River was wonderful to experience with the early morning light.The twisty roads in the park are well maintained gravel. We are ready to explore!It was not as crowded as we expected–we enjoyed chatting with fellow travelers from around the world. Notice the Salto Grande waterfall on the left……Yesterday we hiked there and it was a tad bit windier.We followed the channel to the lake Nordenskjold and the clouds played peek-a-boo on the mountain peaks.We are prepared for 4 seasons in one day but it stays dry!The wind is in the “safe to hike” zone of less than 50kmh. Ranger told us the trail was closed yesterday–because of high winds–so we are feeling very lucky to be here today.The sun is teasing us but it is still pleasant enough to enjoy a picnic lunch with this view, at Mirador Cuernos.We were thrilled to explore Torres del Paine NP on 2 different days as each was special.
Road to Rio Verde: Beautiful day to take the back roads of Patagonia!Puerto Natales on Seno Última Esperanza (Last Hope Sound) with Torres del Paine National Park in the distance towards the North.Black swans on the Seno Última Esperanza – This a Sound not a Fjord and turns out they are geologically different not just south of the equator.The flamingos are enjoying this calm day!This is our Cabana Arte Brisas which we are finding very comfortable.Our view of the neighbors! From Cabana Arte Brisas.And a few resident Queltehue – Vanellus chilensis were fun to watch and listen to.Overlooking the Sena from Cuevo de Milodon.A giant sloth among other artifacts was found at the Cuevo de Milodon, This is the largest cave and we also hiked to two other caves in the park.And were able to enjoy a picnic lunch on such a nice day! Cuevo de Milodon.
After the hike we stopped to enjoy the cascades on Rio Petrohue.
