Welcome to Sweden – the land of FIKA! Used as both a noun and a verb, fika is a Swedish institution–coffee with a snack. The word fika is an inverted form of “kaffi,” the 19th-century Swedish word for “coffee — their adaptation since coffee was banned five times between 1756 and 1817. Well the tradition has persisted.Gamla Uppsala had mound builders! The Viking used to sail directly here 1500 years ago when the Baltic Sea was higher and this was the center of their world. There was even a “ting” here — the site of the annual political assembly of all the tribes — where laws were passed.Some amazing items found in the unlooted, un-cremated viking grave mounds like these intricate helmets. The leaders were buried in their boats with their horses amongst many treasures.Gamla Uppsala was also the center of all the pagan Swedish kingdoms. All these kingdoms came together 1,000 years ago and also became Christianized here.The Gustavianum — the university museum — holds these treasures and has a garden full of Rune stones found there — an ancient burial site.We learned a lot about Rune Stones that we found interesting. Old Norse language is based on Latin, and Runes started appearing around 400 BCE, in the Roman Iron Age. This county in Sweden has the most amount of Runes, which are being documented and maintained.The alphabet for the Rune is simplified into these symbols. Can you write your name?Uppsala has a very visible Cathedral, one of Scandinavian’s largest and most historic, completed in 1435.Gorgeous gothic architecture and murals in the longest nave in Scandinavia!King Gustav Vasa brought the Reformation to Sweden in 1527 so got the prized chapel space. In the tomb sculpture, he is flanked by his two wives — the first died young but the Gustav wanted her next to him in the afterlife — and murals depicting his illustrious life.The dome on the Gustavianum is a sundial on the exterior, and inside is the anatomical theater. Plus a great museum that has other non-viking treasures……Like Anders Celsius’s Thermometer! What is special about this is that the numbers are flipped — in that water boiled at zero degrees, not 100. He later reversed the numbers. He was a colleague of……Carl Linneaus, also a professor here, who used this Microscope to come up with his formal classification system for naming plants and animals — that we still use today.We went over to Linnetradgarden, which is the oldest botanical garden in Sweden. It was founded in 1655 by Olof Rubeck the Elder, gutted by fire in 1702, reworked by Linneas according to his system for arranging plants.This is the Autumn Parterre, with imported plants from the state of Virginia. Many varieties of Rudbeckias – you might have some in your yard! Linneas named to honor Olof Rudbeck the Elder and the Younger.Just a beautiful flower in its prime! And a treat to be in the house — now museum — that Linneas lived and the garden he tended. Contemplating walking in the footsteps that were before us in Uppsala.
Another peaceful morning as we enter Kongsfjorden. However the weather is forecast to change so the ship can’t risk getting us all back safely from a shore excursion.So we get to spend our morning cruising Kongsfjorden looking for Icebergs!The fins and striations are really magnificent.as is the fun shape.and the intensity of the color.You could tell when we were getting near an active glacier calving with all the floating ice. KongsfjordenThis is a hillside which many birds nest. The other ship gives it some scale — and also kept us from getting closer. KongsfjordenA very rainy shore excursion to visit Ny-Alesund, but we still got to see the museum and monuments. This is the Worlds Most Northern Post Office.A memorial plaque in Ny-Alesund-for Amundsen-Ellsworh-Nobile Start of Transpolar Flight 1926. We had learned a lot about the details of this airship flight on our visit to the North Pole Expedition Museum in Longyearbyen.This is the mast that supported the airship Norge before it took off for its Transpolar Flight in 1926, landing in Alaska.The Kings glacier on Kings Fjord as the clouds close down on us, we are happy for some visibility!It has been a few days packed full of glaciers, smooth sailing, meeting new people over our meals while enjoying the views. Thank you to the guides for their enthusiasm and sharing the special places in Svalbard with us.
Early morning fog in Liefdefjorden (which means Love Fjord) at Monaco Glacier. It was so incredibly quiet and serene.After breakfast buffet, we went out exploring in the Rib Boats. Liefdefjorden, Monaco Glacier.Lots to study on the glacial edges while on a Rib Boat cruise — such interesting formations and layers of ice. Liefdefjorden, Monaco Glacier.On adjacent Woodfjorden, we had another shore expedition with our guides. Why is this called Wood Fjord when you see no forests? But see those logs on the beach……They were used to construct the Mushamna Cabin–a trapper cabin built more sturdy than most in around 1997. Trees logged in the Siberian Taiga are floated down rivers, but some get out of control and–instead of reaching their destination–end up in the Arctic Ocean. The ocean currents bring this drift wood to the coast of Svalbard where the storms wash them on shore.We liked the custom lounge chairs to catch some Midnight Sun! Beyond is the anti-bear storage on stilts and a Flintstone type of cart with wooden wheels. There’s also a sauna building, an outhouse, and a sled. Mushamna Cabin would be a nice place to hang out.And you have these views of Woodfjorden–lying beyond where we explored.And in the other direction is where we walked from our ship. Woodfjorden,Mushamna CabinNorth 80-degrees Crossing! GPS image from our Locus App. Download free map of region and use off line – we tracked the route as we sailed, as well as our on shore hikes.This is what the sea looked like at the North 80-degrees crossing. Can you believe how calm it is? Beautiful lighting – around 9PM in the evening. We’re only 690 miles (1,100 km) from the North Pole.We had a Champagne Celebration with everyone on deck. We were also very close to Moffen Island, where walrus could be watched with the binoculars.
The serene beauty this morning of Magdalenefjorden!We are anchoring here in Trinty Harbor – picture postcard perfect!We are on the Rib Boat leaving our ship behind while we go on shore to explore.We are going to learn about the Whaling History in this region.We have to stay behind our guide and no more than 60′ away as part of polar bear awareness. In addition to our guides, there are several others stationed on watch.The Whaling Station Gravneset marker explains the remains of four blubber ovens or furnaces that have been found, as well as a graveyard containing about 130 graves dating from the 17th to the late 18th century.We walked as far as this overlook area to view this glacier and learn more about whaling.And then we got to take an Arctic Ocean Dip! The water was 4 degrees Celsius (that is about 39 Fahrenheit) so not freezing – technically. We received a certificate declaring us a real polar bear for braving the ice cold waves of the arctic sea – but you can see it was as calm as a bath.And the ship awaits with a warm shower.After lunch we had a Rib Boat Cruise to the Smeerenburgbreen. Massively huge glacier making all sorts of noises.The guides measure our distance from the glacier. We can’t get closer than 600 meters for safety. This face was about 100 meters (over 300 feet) in height measured by one of the other safety watch. SmeerenburgbreenVery fun to look at up close.On the Rid Boat you need to wear the special jackets as well as the life vests. We also have rubber boots so we are very warm and dry. This Krykkje black-leg Kittiwake was interested to check us out, floating on his own little ice berg –similar to a gull but different.
We are ready to board the MS Serenissima for a Svalbard Mini-Cruise (4-nights).The route of our Svalbard Mini Cruise will take us to explore more of the Arctic. Spitsbergen means “pointed mountains” in Dutch, named by William Barentz in 1596.The MS Serenissima is sailing under the Nassau flag. We are getting ready to leave Longyearbyen–Svalbard’s largest settlement with about 1,700 year-round residents.That is a massive glacier!!! We are in the Isfjorden after about an hour cruise for our first stop.The Borebreen (Bore Glacier) is beautiful.And it performs some calving for us. Wow–that rocked the boat.But time to leave it and enjoy our first dinner onboard. See the basket on the mast behind me……When it comes down it is time to haul up the anchor and head to the next destination.
We have arrived at the world’s northern most airport–Svalbard lufthavn–with scheduled flights. As you can see was are only 1309 km (813 miles) from the North Pole! and about as far as you can get from the south pole (18692 km)!Changes in latitude! Longyearbyen is at 78 degrees north. Not so long since we crossed the arctic circle (66.63 degrees).The town was established by and named after American John Munro Longyear. Wouldn’t you know – a Michigander?! His Arctic Coal Company started mining here in 1906.We walked along the Advent Fjord to enjoy the scenery.Autumn in the Arctic.We can only walk to the Polar Bear Warning Sign without being armed and trained how to use it. This is Longyearbyen’s drinking water reservoir.Our Svalbard Mini- Cruise took us further up the Longyearbyen Valley to Camp Barentz. William Barentz is credited with discovering Spitsbergen, largest island of the Svalbard archipelago.We learned about the explorer and polar bears in a replica of his cabin from Nova Zembla, built to commemorate William Barentz.Of course we had to taste some beer from Svalbard Bryggeri, Worlds Most Northern Brewery. Very nice pilsner and stout was great with fish ‘n chips! Beer is exported to Germany, Netherlands, Czech Republic and of course, Norway.
Sandvika beach with view of bridge leading to Sommorøy Island. We rented a car in Tromsø and drove through the beautiful island of Kvaloya. There is much to explore…Well this about says it all! We are staying virtually at the end of the road.Only a hill to climb to get the fantastic views of Sommarøy Island. From Hillesøytoppen.View out to the sea from the Arctic Hotel Tromsø on Sommorøy. See those cabins on left……We are in the second Sea House from the left. We are having a few days to relax, hike, explore and just plain hang out listening to the sea gulls and lapping waves.Of course it comes with a fabulous balcony for Wine O’clock….…with our favorite travel companions.Sommarøy Island is picturesque with many coves and areas to explore.Fun to photograph. Looking towards Senja island on far the horizon.Out exploring the beautiful coastline with truly sandy beaches that reminded us of the Caribbean.Haja Island nearby is a point of reference, visible and distinct.Beach combing on our way to see an Iron Age archeology site–not much remaining but gave us pause to think of how long this area has been explored.From our cabin, it’s looking like a perfect evening for a sunset! So we hiked west over that hill and were rewarded……Serenity!
A 45 minute ferry ride from Sommarøy–where we are staying–to the second largest island off the Norwegian coast: Senja and the Tourist Route.We went first to Fjordgard to do a “moderate” morning hike. Heston is only 2 km……but it is pretty much straight up! Looking back down at Fjordgard while the navigator calculates the route.1,500 foot elevation gain later we view the Mighty-Wall-of-the-Insta-Kongen (The Inner King). Incredible!Worthy of a panoramic photo.The iconic Segla peak rises above the Mefjord.We then drove around the Mefjorden and saw Segla. Heston is to the left – we hiked up to the saddle area between the two.We continued on the Senja Tourist Route to the Bergsbotn Viewing Platform. What a fun place to soar above the valley.The amazing landscape of the Bergsfjord “Where the ocean meets the sky” from the Bergsbotn Viewing Platform.Heading back, the Tungeneset rest area lies on the tip of the promontory that separates the Steinsfjord and the Ersfjord.We were especially captivated by the Djevelenstanngard (devil’s teeth) and all the pools of water reflecting the views, at TungenesetWow – there is the ultimate reflection! Tungeneset at Djevelenstanngard (devil’s teeth)Returning back to the car, the view was just as captivating in the other direction – into the sun and towards the other fjord, at Tungeneset.
